The Perfume Insider

Perfumes were never considered essential and were even considered a luxury. They were a costly treat. And even for those who could afford them the availability and selection were limited. A large portion of my collection is made up of duty-free and travel abroad purchases. We have in India chemical-heavy, smelly fumes that were bottled with names that resembled international brands.

We did have serious perfumes. But they were at the other end of the spectrum -- the great olfactory libraries that existed in the side streets of cities. These were where the attar-makers used to operate. These oils and extracts are extremely rare and precious and their application and handling were too complicated for city-slickers.

It is good to see that there are new perfumes on the horizon, with homegrown brands working alongside international 'noses'. These scents could be nose-to-nose rivals for established brands. They use high-quality raw materials, whether natural or pure, and package it well and price it at a level that is within reach of larger brands. Here's a quick list of perfumes that are making a splash in the perfume world. Oudh seems to be a common material. This may explain why this endangered tree species is being grown in Kerala.

Ajmal: "Oudh still hasn't seen daylight yet!" These are the words that Abdulla Ajmal said to me during our meeting. The possibilities with this bark are endless and we are only scratching the surface, pun intended. It doesn't have to be overwhelming. They showed me a blend of citrus top-notes and florals, where the Oudh sat in the back, supporting it but not dominating. The perfume masters also shared a tip: "The average consumer cannot tell if the Oudh is real or synthetic; trusting the brand is the only way to make sure." Ask questions and engage with them. This new range is priced below 2,000 Rupee, but still maintains the purity and integrity of its ingredients.

Bombay Perfumery: Manan Gandhi has it all. From source to spritz - buying ethically from the right farmers and producers, mixing in local ingredients and bottling up nuances and nostalgia, they are on point. Their collabs and candles, including one featuring an Oudh (1,600 Rupee), are all part of a solution to make sure that you send out the right scents for just about 4,000 Rupee.

Maison de Fouzdar: Dimple Fouzdar is another strong supporter of all things Oudh but also understands the need to update it. The range is varied from floral to woody-spicy, and it is considered a premium product. The 7,000 Rupee range includes a 100ml flacon.

Olfa Originals: These premium-priced perfumes, which are focused on all things Oudh, are also in the mix. I particularly enjoyed their roll-on version which was easy to carry and very long-lasting. Price starts at 5,000 Rupee.

Embark: This range is very affordable (sub 2,500 Rupee per 100 ml Eau de Parfum). It's packed like 80s classic perfumes. They feel rich and last a decent amount of time. The essence of each place was captured quite well by the 'Rajasthan, 'Kerala and 'Goa’ variants.

A good perfume is about how it makes you feel and how long they last. While individual preferences for scents and blends are still a matter of personal taste, my experiences with these brands have been very positive. We can now talk about perfumes that meet high standards but are accessible to everyone. Here's to smell good 6 am flights.